- 5" Random Orbital sander
- Chicago Electric "Variable Speed Multifunction Power Tool" (it has a small, app. 3" triangular, sander attachment for reaching tight spaces during sanding & buffing)
- 7" electric polisher
- electric power drill
- two "buff" (polishing) attachments for power drill, also to reach tight spaces, when polishing
- microfiber cleaning cloths
- foam attachment and bonnets (two) for polisher
- 80 or 120 grit sanding disks (optional)
- 220 grit sanding disks*
- 400 grit sanding disks**
- Grey 3M Scotch Brite Scuff Pads (app. 5"x9", I cut to size)
- Plastic water spray bottle
- Hope's Countertop Polish (used in place of Dani Designs' "Perfect Finish")
3-M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound3-M Finesse-It II Machine Polish- Rejuvenate Countertop Polish (used in place of 3-M products)
- Beeswax Polish
- 220 grit sanding sponge block and extra 220 & 400 grit sandpaper (for beveled edges)
- hole puncher (hand held, to punch holes in sandpaper, as needed)
- gloves and mask
- scraping tools (to remove caulking, dried on paint, etc.)
- caulk (to replace after finish)
* Make sure to use the correct backing & hole requirements for the sander (mine uses hook & loop, with 5 holes)
** Here is where I learned something new. The video instructions called for "P220" and "P600" sanding disks. No one in the two hardware stores I visited knew what the P stood for, and they said there is no "600 grit". So I went home, did a little googling, and found this helpful explanation. Basically, grit designated "P" is a European standard; most sandpaper sold in the U.S. follows the CAMI standard. The article includes a chart that helps to convert the P (ISO/FEPA) to U.S. (CAMI) standard. So P600 is roughly equivalent to U.S. 360-400 grit, but P220 is the same as U.S. 220.
